04 January 2012

Dreadlocks in Nepal

How are dreadlocks seen in Nepal? Should I cut my dreads before going to Nepal? Read on for my suggestions based on my experience with dreadlocks in Nepal.

Isaac at Vishnu school in southern Nepal. (C) Kirstie Bickford.

I spent about two weeks in Nepal, mostly in villages but also a few days in Kathmandu. Nepal was the first place I have traveled where dreadlocks have a strong role in the country's culture/religion. In Hinduism, holy men wear dreadlocks (called jata in Nepali).

Holy men with dreadlocks. (C) Deana Zabaldo, under GNU Free Documentation License.

Since I don't paint my face, dress in yellow/orange robes, or act like a holy man, I expected that Nepali people would not associate me with the tradition of holy men. And I was right.Kind of.

A man who was born and raised in Kathmandu said that because I am obviously a foreigner, people would understand my hair didn't mean the same thing as it did for locals. If anything, he thought I would be associated with trekkers and hippies rather than with holy men. However, a man who was born and raised in a village near Biratnagar (southern Nepal) and now lives in Kathmandu had a different view. He said people believe having dreadlocks indicates holiness, not that holy men wear dreadlocks. "You mean people will think I'm a holy man?" I thought he was joking at first. After a few interactions with people, I realized he wasn't.

When we met his family, they talked about my hair and how holy I must be because of it. Later, in a hotel restaurant, the manager of the hotel said that I was "close to being a witchdoctor." Whether "close" meant "looks-similar-to" or "nearly becoming," I'm not sure...

Isaac and a KG boy have a staring match (or as Kirstie said "share a moment.") (C) LEAD. Photo by Kirstie Bickford.

So here's where it gets confusing - the way people acted towards me was not what I expected based on how they talked about my hair and what it meant. In general, I think people treated me like they would any other foreigner. I can think of two possible explanations for this. Maybe they treat foreigners like foreigners regardless of how holy their hair makes them look. Or maybe Nepali people treat holy men different from what I expect. I think I would need a longer time in Nepal to figure it out...

Bottom line - If you will be sticking to Kathmandu or common trekking routes and are willing to be stereotyped as a trekker or hippie, you're probably safe with dreadlocks. If you will visit rural areas that are not on trekking routes, consider cutting your dreads. If I had known what I do now, I would have cut my  hair before going to Nepal. I don't want to mislead anyone about my spiritual condition because of hair stereotypes.

Leave a comment to let me know what you think about this. If you have dreadlocks and have traveled or lived in Nepal, I would love to hear about your experiences.

..Isaac..

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